shoot this near afternoon …. and with the Big Stopper (Super ND) and GND .6s …I have ~12 stops to have my shutter open for 40sec to get the silky effect …
some related link
My Tool
a silky Pantai Jeram
rule or view ?
while I started my landscape, many of forum friends had share with me all the “guidelines”/”rules” e.g. 2/3 horizontal line …etc …. appreciate that and I learn fast from everyone inputs….
as for now, I trying to share as much that in my mind to my gang, friends, workshop participants ..etc …. all the “guidelines” but I always emphasize .. while we trying to think and follow the “guidelines” , we can still capture what we love to capture as snapshot or follow own preference as this will make us enjoy the photography … rather stand there without any shutter press even the view is great ….
e.g. of this … I can’t make any good decision while the light (cloud on left top) moving real fast and if I still move myself to look for better angle then I definite will miss this beautiful sky …. there are nothing at foreground too …. if I make foreground 2/3 ….. so I decide to capture the view to share with other rather just view this myself ….
nothing wrong but it look not too attractive overall … but I will still capture 50/50 if I feel I have no choice … 😀
how we shoot close …
I shared how I shoto wave yesterday … How close will you go ?
but then it is also good to learn .. “run fast fast”
as this
or let’s see the movie 😀
how close will you go ?
was away for few days for Jul-Aug Nightscape and Correct Exposure workshop and thanks all for this success workshop + outing ….
I didn;t shoot a lot except last day while I saw my lovely wave … and thinking of how close every can go toward the wave splash … and am happy almost everyone got “wet”
and while I was there… ask again myself and other .. how close will you go and because of beautiful pictures will you go close to rish your gear for wet and malfunction ?
thanks Erica for few capture how I capture the wave
and one of the picture capture …..
so how close will you go ?
as close as this ?
more Terengganu pictures
simply a photo ?
many of us understand before we press the shutter , we should plan for technical/art compo, horizontal, 2/3 …. etc ….
but there is something more important for landscape photographer
UNDERSTAND the NATURE and PLAN for the shot …
for landscape lover, it is not just photography but there are more to understand/know … e.g. tide, direction, timing, weather … etc ….
if you want to be serious then start ask yourself
1. must facing east for sunrise ?
2. is good to shoot this at low tide ? or high tide ?
3. what’s the tide level at beach near by ?
4. what time moonrise/moonset/sunrise/sunset
5. are all countries having same sunrise/sunset/moonset/moonrise time ?
etc ?????
e.g. are these plan or just shot what I see while I was there ?
so do you think planning is important for a landscape photographer ?
a steady Stand …
I share a Splash worth to share yesterday, where I do not able to stand firm on ground …
but today let share how I shoto at a place I stand real firm … or not easy to move 😀
think the picture I capture at this angle had been remove and I have one recent post one which need ~10 steps forward 😀
* think you can see it in the picture above
it is too much fun to look for better angle in Landscape Photography … it just make me keep moving .. so if you like Landscape let move and let’s try some new place and angle ………..
a Splash shot worth to share …
a simple shot that may not come out easy…. just share one of my tough shot recently done at Kemasik Beach, Kemaman, Terengganu…
I was standing near the big rock waiting for the big splash …. my len filters keep splash by wave, need non stop drying , and myself wet too after few splashes that I feel not stong enough and finally I got the splash what I looking for … then I got wet and have to run away from it …. have ~30-50 shutter press for this
and this is a simple and happy shot with a lot of effort (for me ….)
a shot from previous East Coast Outing
and more Terengganu pictures click
some of my Non-DSLR pictures
sometime we really enjoy the view do not mean we need a good camera to capture it .. it is always good to enjoy the moment, view …. and even capture with a Point and shot camera, we will still happy to see it
I always bring my Panasonic Lumix LX5 around … and few of my simply snapshot while I am shootnig with my SLR
and just outside the place I stay
so enjoy the shooting today ….
How I correct WB
Even I trust my 5d very much where I could say the AWB (Auto White Balance) accuracy is much better than what other body I use before … but in certain light condition, filter effect, and to have much perfect WB… I still correct my WB using 2 method below
*** before I start, I only shoot raw so these methods only apply with RAW and Photoshop , lightroom … (other software should be same concept but different interface)
A. look for white point
1at some case, I do not have time to shoot 2 picture (1 with grey card and the other without) .. then I will try my best to look for white spot in the picture
2. click on the WB tool on top
3. simply use the pen point to the white point
the color seem more normal but still need little more work to bring back original e.g. contrast, saturation, ….
sample of coversion
B. Grey card, look for grey
I prefer this method where this can be useful to correct WB and even correct most of the color cast … but this need shoot additional picture with the grey card or sypder cube (come with white, grey and total dark)
2. use the same WB tool as A2 above, but this time point to the Grey card or gray part of the spyder cube
– remember the temperature and tint value to apply on the actual picture
3. the correction
.. again, due to the blue cast…. we need little more work to bring back the other colors .. e.g. contrast, saturation …..
do drop me a message if any part of this not clear ….
*** again the final output still need further tune up due to the bad blue cast …
How I shoot Landscape – black card method (use finger)
I actually want to share this “black card” quite some time ago .. but I always forget and not really able to get some good result to share … and while I am doing this , one of my gang actually notice me shaking my finger around the front len .. and she did ask what was I doing … 😀 and here you go ….
what is black card method and when will we use it ?
when we having different exposures, I normally do GND filter, exposures blending, black card, HDR …(we not going to discuss all here but share some sample)
A. GND filter
this is just like GND filter, most of the time we have big dynamic range/different between sky and foreground.. it normally have different from 2-9 stops …. e.g. for standard sunrise/sunset/magic hour environment, we face 2-4 stops different between foreground – sky… to resolve this we normally use GND to single frame picture have the correct exposure among foreground and sky e.g.
1. without GND
2. GND
– the sky is ~4 stops different from the foreground…
– I use GND.9s for above picture and do some PP trick to make the right exposure
B. HDR (seldom do this …but think we still good to know this)
– why I choose HDR … this was shoot use my SIGMA12-24mm which cannot fit any filter
– it was too cold to think which method to choose so I simply shoot 7 exposures back 😀
3. black card
– seldom use this as I am not really experience
– filter much easy
– need a lot of try and error but the good light could be disappear any time
– why I choose black card, the environment was dark, not sure how/where to apply GND
– multiple exposures will take double or even more times for single shot
– the exposure different >3 stops
for me I know the area that make me concern as below
– so what I did was, use my fingers block the over expose area
– allow only ~2-3 seconds exposure over 30 seconds exposure, so I block it until last few seconds and I remove my finger
so I get
most of the time we just need try and error, where some fail sample .. think only expose for ~1s
I will discuss more on other method in future … but let’s try and error on black card 😀