I am bringing in some related items (Nature Photography e.g. tripod, filters, twin flash arm….) for sales, and do not hesitate to contact me if you need something that not listed here
to capture a beautiful photo, it is not just skill, luck … but we need to have right tool … e.g. of condition below .. we really need to trust out friend – tripod … [my gear – Tripod – fotopro]
CB-38 FT with QR70 | CB-32 FP with Fotopro QR | CB-32 FP with QR40
How I choose a ball head or you … good friction , weight and price
1. friction , we do not want our ball head fall lower down after we fix the composition … especially we shoot at portrait mode
WE DO NOT WHAT WE CAPTURED is not WHAT WE WANT 😀
2. weight, bigger ball head tend to have better friction but it weight
3. price, but do we got many good and cheap option ?
I own few head to put on my tripod and will slowly share those one by one … but today would like to share my main ball head which is FLM ball head which brought to you by Leephoto from German …..
I only have 2 of it which is CB-32FP & CB-38FT….
the P –> mean it come with the “Pan” nut/option and T —> come with both PAN and Tilt nut/option (view below video for more)
the ball head are solid, hold it and you feel the different.. even the price is bit high if use with the original quick release system .. but we do have option to use cheaper Manfrotto, fotopro quick release system to bring the cost down ….. and it still perform well…
some update pictures
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1. FLM CB 38FT with QRP70 – 38F with T5
LEFT – FLM CB38 FT with QRP70 RIGHT – FLM CB38 F with T5
2. Quick Release different FLM QRP70 – Fotopro T5
LEFT – FLM QRP70 RIGHT – Fotopro T5
3. FLM CB 38FT with QRP70 – 32F with QRP40
LEFT – FLM CB 38FT with QRP70 RIGHT – FLM 32F with QRP40
– this is a base to level the “ball head” so we can improve the panorama capture
– use when the tripod (or ground no flat or balance) so this leveling base can easily level the ball head base
LB60 with FLM 38FT
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few simple movie show how it work …
how to control tilt and Pan
– the pan is standard but tilt …. after you fix the composition and you want little up or down without affect your horizontal tilt ….i like this MOST ..
set the friction – Yes, we can control it
set the friction
loose friction or low number
tight friction or high number
– like this also .. i can just move my len without open/loose the ball head control …. even with heavy 70200 F2.8 len
tripod is my GOOD friend … I always say this and for my last trip, most of my friend look at me and ask why you bring your tripod any where … my answer is “I do not want to miss anything”
a good tripod for me should serve me few objective
1. sturdy
2. lowest possible angle
3. highest possible angle
4. the leg connection design, I had few experience with other brand tripod all failed on the leg which sand went into the connection cause the failure
5. size
6. weight
7. cost
we invest thousands of dollar on our equipment and I don’t think it is good idea to put it on a tripod that risk your equipment …..
I need my tripod to be stable because I do not want it to fall
I need my tripod have lower angle, because I know I need it
I need my tripod to have light weight because I bring it any where
I need my tripod to be durable to sand attack as most of us go beaches know it kill our tripod
I wish the price is cheaper, everyone wish too
I wish it can be multi tasking … yes mine can use as monopod
….
some sample places I use for my tripod and it never failed me like previous tripods (which cost me RM300-2000)… it still serve me GREAT after 1.5 year heavy utilise (only clean once) …
beside standard tools tripod, release cable, ….I using different filter for different situation and effect … e.g. I use super ND to clear silky effect on sunny day which discuss here.
I also make use of CPL to get better colors contrast, reflection, shot the clearness of the water …. sometime I do use it as ND filters too (2 stops) …
e.g. of the highlight of the coconut tree leaf on sunny day
without CPL with CPL but simply turn with CPL and turn/rotate to make less reflection/highlight
the usage of the CPL just like Photography, it never have right or wrong … it just what you prefer to see … but above e.g. is to show how we use to reduce the highlight of the reflective part of the coconut tree leaf
another e.g. to show the water reflection and the saturation of the overall picture
CPL on with rotation for reflectionCPL on with rotation for clear water capture
both sample above show different effect can be archive by rotating the CPL…..
For me, if you serious in Landscape CPL is a necessary tool that always near you so you can have what effect you would like have which not easy archive by other filters or post processing ….
sample
a sample of using CPL
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good news is the Marumi DHG CPL/DHG Super CPL are in-stock now… and thanks LeePhoto bringing in the such a good filters into market
Marumi DHG Circular PL(D)
contact me for price for COD near Kuala Lumpur/PJ/any place I reach …. or by courier service here
1. stronger arm that can handle heavy flash like 430EX , sb600 etc …
Fotopro Duo flash Mount
it is always good to bring flash closer to the object which help to freeze the object even wind or hand shake (for more info please google “Inverse-square law for Light”)
1/128 power = 1/36313 seconds Flash Duration —- SCALED to REPORTED DATA
1/64 power = 1/25341 seconds
1/32 power = 1/19232 seconds
1/16 power = 1/12914 seconds
1/8 power = 1/9151 seconds
1/4 power = 1/6107 seconds
1/2 power = 1/4019 seconds
Full power = 1/833 seconds
Canon 580 EXii – Distance from Flash to Sensor: 2 feet
1/128 power = 1/52718 seconds Flash Duration —- SCALED to REPORTED DATA
1/64 power = 1/38845 seconds
1/32 power = 1/26887 seconds
1/16 power = 1/18626 seconds
1/8 power = 1/13039 seconds
1/4 power = 1/8447 seconds
1/2 power = 1/5006 seconds
Full power = 1/871 seconds
simple compare, the lower the power mean we have faster virtual shutter speed which help to freeze the moment (due to wind, hand shake and etc) … so if when we do handheld macrophotography, it is always good to make flash closer to the object …
so some of my testing are base using the flash bracket (which bring the light source closer to the object)
a ND must have when you really into a slow shutter or long exposure photography which give you 10 stops down …and easily create silky, motion of flowing objects e.g. water, wave, clouds …
